I use Power pro 100 lb on big baits like my weagles and big dogs. I use 65 for medium baits and 40 for little baits like 205 cranes and #5 bucktails. Mostly pike when I am using the 40 pound. I use that lighter line on a bass reel(Phluger trion ) and that rod has lots of give (8 foot St. Croix bass flippin stick. 65 is my main line stuff for most medium lures but when you play with bigger baits at or over 3.5 ounces 80 or 100 is (not) overkill. Match the rods with the line tests and lures. Never throw big baits with light action rods and the opposite applies there as well. Heavy rods with tight drags and huge lines will straighten small hooks. So just use balance . Smaller baits lighter actions ,heavy baits with big hooks use 80 or 100 man. Kingfisher
The best advice I can give someone is to stick with one type of reel and learn how to repair it. I buy the Pete Maina reels and have parts on hand for when they break down. Normally these reels will break pawls but are pretty flawless besides that. Casting muskie baits is probably the ultimate punishment for a baitcasting reel. When you combine the heavy, no-stretch line, heavy baits, tons of reeling, and opening and closing of the bail, you are being pretty tough on a reel. I quit looking for one that wouldn't break down a long time ago.
Michelle has three of the St. Croix reels. two of the 250 and one 300. They are lower profile and that works for her smaller hands. They have performed flawless for 4 years. One of them (her main one) is starting to have some issues of sticking. I think a good cleaning will take care of it. I had terrible luck with the Abu Records I have had two out of 6 fail on the first day using them. I am not impressed with the durability but love how smooth they are. The older model c-3 Abu seems to be built much better than the new ones. I have one that came with the round handles that is still going strong after 12 years. I like the Phluger trion low profile bass reel. Also 99 bucks and has the faster 6.3 to 1 ratio. Great for small baits and the spool fills with a 100 yard spool of 40 pound power pro. I have this reel on an 8 foot St. Croix Bass mag flippin stick. Almost zero effort to fish this set up tossing little crane baits and my new Rippin Shads. Its my main pike rod but I use it a lot on lakes with smaller muskies as well. Mike
I just got an email flyer from BPS with their Pete Maina round muskie reel on sale for $70. This reel is the same as the Pflueger Trion 66, I believe.
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Just a word of warning for those reels though. My brother and I got three of the mania BPS combos when we were first starting off and had some huge inconsistencies with the reels. I believe all three reels broke fairly quickly with one of them breaking within two weeks. We did get them replaced and a couple of those worked really well for a couple years. Have heard this situation on many of the musky forums too; some last a long time and are very good while others break right away and are junk. I personally wont buy another one as I dont want to take the chance of one breaking on me and going through the hassle of replacing it. Anyone use the Shimano Corvalus? Thinking about getting one for the upcoming season.
"Will Schultz" said:
That 4:1 might be good for a grinding reel, lots of power for double 10 blades and big cranks.
One of the most important things that I have learned on my reels is to get one with a lower ratio. I would also look for one that either comes with a power handle or you can add a power handle for double 10's and anything larger and it makes a huge difference while fishing.
"edalz" said:
[quote="Will Schultz"]That 4:1 might be good for a grinding reel, lots of power for double 10 blades and big cranks.
One of the most important things that I have learned on my reels is to get one with a lower ratio. I would also look for one that either comes with a power handle or you can add a power handle for double 10's and anything larger and it makes a huge difference while fishing.
I prefer a middle of the road gear ratio unless I have a rod that is lure/retrieve specific. For instance, I like the middle of the road 5:1 for most stuff (including double tens w. a power handle) but I'm probably going to bite the bullett this year and get a large saltwater reel with 6:1 for BIG blades. I also really like a high speed reel for jerkbait and some crankbait retreives because taking up slack with 6:1 is so easy compared to 5:1.
"Will Schultz" said:
I also really like a high speed reel for jerkbait and some crankbait retreives because taking up slack with 6:1 is so easy compared to 5:1.
A couple of years ago, I was fishing with a 6:1. I LOVED it for cranking in smaller bucktails. It was a low profile baitcaster. Turning double 10's was kind of a chore, though.
"John E. Sox" said:
The best advice I can give someone is to stick with one type of reel and learn how to repair it. I buy the Pete Maina reels and have parts on hand for when they break down. Normally these reels will break pawls but are pretty flawless besides that. Casting muskie baits is probably the ultimate punishment for a baitcasting reel. When you combine the heavy, no-stretch line, heavy baits, tons of reeling, and opening and closing of the bail, you are being pretty tough on a reel. I quit looking for one that wouldn't break down a long time ago.
John, I found your post while searching for reel repair info. I fish for musky in Indiana and think the Maina round reels are a good deal for the $. I was wondering if you knew how to remove the right bearing from the spool axle. There is a drive pin through the right side of the axle so either that would need to be pressed out or the axle itself pressed out from the spool left to right (right handed reel). Any insight would be appreciated.
Bill K
3/9/09 Update:
First off, good to see the site back on line. I found the answer to my question and thought I'd post it in case anyone else could use it. The bearing is replaced by pressing out the pin in the axle. I made a press by cutting a notch in a set of pliers. Here is a pic from the article and a link to a good page regarding bearings:
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